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Splendors of
the Bay
Naples, Caserta, Ischia, Capri, The Amalfi Coast
Naples overlooks
one of the most
romantic bays in the world, the capital of a region
steeped in art and history dating back to Magna
Grecia, whose excitable, lively people have devised
celebrations and entertainment throughout the ages
that still attract visitors all over the world.
Naples, the birthplace of Pulcinella, Caruso,
and pizza. Its environs
are
so well known, that perhaps people fail to
full appreciate the city itself. We would like to
suggest a few alternative tours for the
visitor. The first begins in Piazza del Municipio,
with the 16th c.
Church
of S. Giacomo degli Spagnoli, dominated by the
sturdy 13th century castel Nuovo
originally built by the angevin rulers. It was
completely rebuilt under Alfonso I of Aragon (15th
c.) by Catalan and Tuscan architets. Note the
Renaissance triumphal arch entrance gate . In Piazza
del Plebiscito is the neoclassical Church of S.
Francesco di Paola and the grandiose Royal Palace
built in 1600 by Domenico Fontana, renovated in
1700, and further embellished under the reign of
Murat (internal courtyard, historical apartments,
Court Theatre buit in 1768). Walking up Via Medina
and Via Monteoliveto, we can see the Church of S.
Anna dei Lombardi, which is itself a museum of
Renaissance sculpture, and the Museo Archeologico
Nazionale - one of the world's richest collections
of sculptures, paintings, mosaics and objects which
provide an exhaustive picture of the Graeco-Roman
civilization. The second tour begins in Piazza Gesu'
nuovo on the road known as "Spaccanapoli" , where wi
still visit the church of Gesu Nuovo with its
imposing 16th c.
ashlars facade, and the nearby Provencal Gothic 14th
c. Church of S. Chiara, with its rich art
collection. From here we can visit the ancient
cloister of adjacent Poors Clares'
Convent (Chiostro delle Clarisse), faced with lively
coloured tiles, and a superb example of a rustic
18th centry garden. Next the Church of S. Domenico
Maggiore, then Palazzo Cuomo(15th c.) wuth the
Filangieri Municipal Museum (paintings; weaponry,
ceramics, poercelain, needlework and archaeological
findings), and the cathedral, built in the 13th
century on the site on an Early Christian basilica.
Inside in the richly decorated Chapel of S. Gennaro,
and the Chapel of S. Restituta - Naples' earliest
Chistian Basilica. If we have time, we can go to see
the Churches of S. Maria Donnaregina (Gothic,
spendid frescoes), Monte della Misericordia (works
by Caravaggio), S. Lorenzo Maggiore and S. Pietro a
Maiella, with the nearby Conservatoire of Music,
bosting a long glorious tradition, with its
interesing museum. Our third tour takes us to huge
Capuana Gate, the Church of S. Giovanni Carbonara,
the Catacombs of S. Gennaro extraordinary museums:
The Museo and Gallerie of Capodimonte in Capodimonte
Park (works by Simone Martini, Masaccio, Botticelli,
Correggio, Mantegna, El Greco, Titia, Brueghel, van
der Weyden, etc.
, works of the 19rth century Neapolitan school; a
collection of over 3,000 pieces of porcelain
and ceramic tiles; the dE ciccio collection; the
"porcelain room", 1757); the Museo Nazionale di San
Martino in the Arthurian
Monastery of S. Martino (church, naval museum,
cribs, sculptures, glass and porcelain, picture
gallery, cloister); the Museo Nazionale della
Ceramica in the neoclasssical Villa Floridiana
standing in its splendid grounds. All three museums
stand high above the city, from where we can take in
the magnificent view of the bay. There are many
delightful walks in the city , as well: from via
Partenope to via Caracciolo, from the Riviera di
Chiaia to Mergellina , from thre Belvedere up to
Posillipo to Marechiaro and the little island of
Nisida, from the Vomero to Pizzofalcone hill.
Now we will explore the treasures in the country
around Naples, rich in art and history : the spa
resort of Pozzuoli with the Temple of Serapis, the
Flavian amphitheatre , the sulphur springs; and a
few miles is Capo MIseno and Lake Lucrino and Averno,
Baia and Bacoli (archaeologiacal park) ; the ancient
Greek and Roman city of Cumae, mainly famed for the
most sacred shrine in ancient Italy , and
immortalized by Virgil: the oracle of the Cumae
Sybil. Capua (the Cathedral, Museo Campano) is our
next port of call, and the Basilica of S. Angelo in
Formis, perhaps the Campanias' region most
interesting mediaeval church, with superb frescoes;
then
Caserta,
which grew up around Vanvitelli's majestic Royal
Palace (1200 rooms!) surrounded
by a magnificien park full of fountains. 6 lies on
is the mediaeval hamlet of Casera Vecchia with a
fine Cathedral . We now go to Benevento originally a
Sannite town , with Roman Monuments (theatre, arch
of Traian) and Lombard remains. Visit the Chatedral
, the Church of S. Sofia, the Rettori Castle, and
the Museo del Sannio. 20 iles further on in the
center of the green Irpinia region is Avellino
(visiting the Museo Irpino). This is a little known
region, unfortunately, but its beautiful forest and
hills, dotted with ancient towns and villages, with
its prehistoric, Roman and Mediaeval remains makes
it a fascinating area to visit. A few words on the
other places close to Naples, which hardly need an
introduction: the islands of Procida, Ischia and
Capri deserve a much fuller description that can
give here Procida, with its pretty houses, so
dear to painters and poets; Ischia with its
wonderful beaches and spas (Ischia Porto, Barano,
Casamicciola Terme, Forio, Sant'Angelo and the
elegant Lacco Ameno), and the enchanting isle of
Capri, a favourite
international tourist resort on account of its
unspoiled natural beauty,
climate, vegetation, and a favourite haunt of the
Roman Emperors. The there is Mount Vesuvius,
where we go up to the edge of crater; or Ercolano
(Herculaneum) and Pompeii; or we can drive aroun the
marvellous Amalfi cost where every thiny town
deserves a visit: Castellamare di Stabia , Vico
Equense, and Sorrento, sorrounded by its orange and
lemon groves , and gardens; the elegant resort of
Positano, Praiano, Maiori, Minori, Vietri sul Mare,
and the noble town of
Amalfi,
whose glorious past as Maritime Republic has
bequeathed in the Gothic Arsenal , and the
magnifcient Cathedral with the Paradise cloister
(13th c.). From Amalfi we can visit the "Emerald
Grotto" or drive up to Ravello, and see the
Romanesque cathedral , Villa
Cimbrone 9with its famous belvedere), and Villa
Rufolo which Wagner used as the magic garden for his
Parsifal.
http://www.regione.campania.it
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